The Cummings 12mm pump is almost bolt on. you will need to swap a better govenor spring and the LDA from a TDI motor for a TDI setup. You also need to machine the bracket to fit the pump drive or use a A3 AHU one and get a pulley machined to fit (the taper is bigger and the timing is about 1 tooth off). For a IDI motor you just should swap spring and fix the mounting / timing issues. If I didn't have the parts on the shelve for the cummings pump, the Land rover 300 TDI pump is a direct swap although not always a 12mm head. The cummings should support move power than the land rover pump though after the modifications.
Power wise the engine should easily reach 250whp with the potential to get up to over 300whp with enough fueling. The block alone should put us at around 190whp with the stock turbo, so this is what I plan on starting with for tuning and break in purposes. Basically I will be bypassing the LP turbine with the wastegate fully open. Once I get the bugs fixed I will work on turning things up slowly and then increasing fuel.
If you look at the first picture you will notice the stock airbox is actually higher than my custom aftermarket intake. From that point I have about 14" more space until I hit the top of the hood at the rear of the engine bay. The turbo only will take up about 8" of that so plenty of room for cooling. These bays have a lot of height and not a lot of width to play with so I am trying my best to use that to my advantage. The fun part is going to be the downpipe snaking around the brake lines, pinion, starter, and output shafts.
The insulation you see here is only the covering. I ended up dynomating the engine bay and then applying additional aluminum heat shielding to cut down on noise and heat transfer from the turbos. On the inside I used 10mm thick floor sound deadening material which I installed behind the HVAC air box and other components to even further dampen the noise. I insulated the hood around two months after ownership and found it significantly reduced the noise in the cabin. The floor and part of the firewall on the inside of the van is also truck bedlined. I highly would suggest this along with having them coat the crap out of the outside wheel wells. ( I have yet to coat the wheel wheels, but suspect this is where most of my noise is coming from).
The auto transmission although old and heavy has some very key benefits most don't know about:
1) drag guys from V8 sandrails use these to hold over 800whp motor builds when combined with a custom casing.
2) The gearing is straight gearing out of the box. This holds way more torque than the oem 60 degree gearing that the newer TDI VWs come with.
3) Parts are very cheap to rebuild these things. I spent $500 in parts and now have more than enough performance clutch packs than I know what to do with.
I also really wanted not to screw up the interior and was having a hard time figuring out a cable routing system that would allow me to put the shifter box in the oem auto spot so that it looks and feels oem. I Also enjoy having this as my only automatic car, and am long term considering swapping it for a DSG setup if I can figure out how to get it to be AWD on a junkyard budget.
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